Visiting Phnom Penh, Pearl of Asia prior to 1970s
Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia founded in 1434 (1434–1497) and reopened in 1865 with the total land of 679 km² (is expanding south and east) and with residents of over 2,2million (migrated from all regions in Cambodia). Phnom Penh is located at the confluence of three rivers cross that forms as an "X" which are the mighty Mekong river, the Bassac river and the great Tonle Sap lake. The city was also previously known as Krong Chaktomuk (Chaturmukha) meaning "City of Four Faces" meet in front of the Royal Palace – the place they celebrate Water festival and Boat Racing every year in November. The population or residents in this city is Original Khmer 60%, Chinese 15%, Vietnamese 20% and 5% other.
Above: The Royal Palace - Prasat Tevea Vinichay
Phnom Penh is the heart of the country. It is the center for everything: foreign embassies, big organizations, universities, factories, airport, companies, automobile dealers, banks, social enterprises, museums, art & cultural centers, heritage buildings, supermarkets, retailers, businesses, cinemas, big hotels and restaurants, and central for government office buildings. Phnom Penh city has largest population, then Sihanouk Ville and Siem Reap town. There are several marketplaces selling carvings, paintings, silk, silver, gems and even antiques. Indeed, an ideal destination for a leisurely day tour.
Above: A guy showed a piece of Lkon Sbek Thom - Khmer Shadow Dance in front of Wat Phnom
Above: My mom stood in the National Museum Compound
Above: I was feeding the pigeons in front of the Royal Palace
The peek of Phnom Penh (1960s)
Prior to 1970s, Phnom Penh was compared to Pearl of Asia: modern, civilized & industrialized. There are many things, popular Rock and Rolls and golden time for music industry, Film and Arts (French movie in 1962, watch at minute 40 for boat racing) [films and vintage lost during the war] and many other things. Movies and films were produced and shown in neighboring countries (in China, Singapore, Russia, Thailand, and many others)
In the documentary (the video of Olympic Stadium opening), it shows that the late president of Singapore came to Phnom Penh for cultural and industrial exchanges. Because of that, Phnom Penh was named as Pearl of Asia, but it did not stay long till....
Tragic civil wars, terrible history (The fall of Phnom Penh: 1970s)
The tragic civil war in 1975-1979 forced people out of the city for about 3 years and it was reopened in January 1979. Only a small numbers of them survived the cruel civil wars and returned to their homes. Most of people migrated to the third countries such as those in Europe, Australia and Americas. Big mansion or villas and big factories were abandoned for that period. This war not only affected Phnom Penh residents that time, everyone was affected by it. If you meet any Cambodia aged over 55 year-old and you asked about their experiences in the war, they could tell you about it.
The rebirths: starting from "0"
In 1980s, people slowly moved back and could own any villa they want (most of its owners could not survive the civil wars to come back and claim the ownership). The original Phnom Penh residents that returned back to live here are minimal. Most residents of Phnom Penh this day are immigrants from other areas around Cambodia, like myself. In many documentary and books, this was named as "Cambodia Year Zero" meaning everything start from "0" again. Many things were lost to wars, the lives of scholars, artists, and civilians, cultural and heritage resources).
- If you have never heard about this, you can start watching "the Killing Field" now. Start from minute 59 where they started to evacuate people out of town. It will answer your questions.
- Another evidence is the two killing fields museum, which open for visitors these days: Cheouk Ek – the Killing field (Google Map) and S21 “ Toul Sleng genecidal museum” (Google Map)
- Now even almost 40 years after the civil war, we are slowly back.. but cannot be like before or cannot follow our neighbors. Wars left us too deep wound
Above: One pit at Cheoung Ek the Killing Field
Facilities availability these days
Food
You can find almost every cuisine in this town. Phnom Penh is like the hub for everything. Food and drink even most of them are not originated from this town, people immigrated to live in this city would bring those recipees along with them. If you ever want to run business or food business, the chance for successful here is higher than anywhere else in Cambodia due to the crowd.
- Popular eating places
- Near Wat Langa & big restaurants around Beung Keng Kang areas
- Along the riverside
- Russian market areas
- Starbuck cafes are available here, equally famous as the local brand "Brown" served as business meet-up places these days
- Nightlife (famous at northern part of the royal palace on riverside)
- Sky bars: Sky bars and drink areas are norther part of the Royal Palace along the riverside
- Night market
- Sunset river cruise
- Foreign cuisines
- Cuisines from India, Mexico, Peking, Taiwan, Korea, Japan, Thailand, and many countries are available in town
- Cambodian street foods are almost available in all streets in the city (almost every street)
- Vegetarian food are also available
- There are special places for special dishes around town. I will introduce them later
Accommodation
- It scattered most parts of the city. The most famous one is along the river side. Southern part of the Royal Palace are more luxurious hotels/accommodations
- Northern part of the royal palace along the riverside (near Phsar Chas & Phsar Kandal) are more for backpackers or budgeted tourists.
- The ones nearby the Russian markets are more for residentials and also good for staying
- The one in Beng Kang areas is also good to stay as it is closed to many tourist destinations.
Parks and exercising places
There are three famous parks for exercise:
- Independent park & Botumvatey park – famous for walking
- Olympic stadium – for aerobic, dancing group, run and group sport like tennis & football
- Riverside walking path – for walking and fresh air
There are only two international airports in Cambodia which is in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap
- Phnom Penh international airport (now is expanding) host big airlines and all departures to any country is from here
- Siem Reap can only host few direct airlines
- Sihanouk Ville - serves more local flights
Tourist attractions
There are so many things ones can do while in Phnom Penh. There are various places and you can spend from 0.5days to 3 days in this small city. A list of what to do can be found in here.
- Market:
- Central Market, aka Phsar Thom Thmey
- Toul Tompoung Market, aka Russian market
- Phnom Penh night market & riverside
- Cultural attractions
- Royal Palace & the Silver pagoda
- Independent monument
- National stadium
- Silk island at Koh Dach
- Wat Onaloum
- Natural attractions
- Riverside and the Mekong Sunset cruise
- Wat Phnom
- Main architecture features:
- Chaktomuk conference hall/cultural theater
- Central market
- Olympic stadium
- Museum & killing field:
- Toul Sleng Genocidal museum, known as S21
- Cheoung Ek burial site, Killing field
- National museum of Cambodia & Cambodian Living Arts Performance
Transport
- There are public buses around the city but not very popular it is not always on time due to the traffic
- Motor taxi seems to be replaced by Indian tuktuk, good companies are PassApp and Grab (you can download these apps before arrival). Some Passapp would just ask you to cancel and charge you not correct price because you don't need to put locations, it is dangerous and not honest. So, I would advise you to take Grab (tuktuk, car), you have to put destination thought.
- Cyclo "old style " is not very popular anymore but if you want to expeience it, try them along the riverside or nearby Wat Onaloum.
Video of the city
- Footage of the city from 1966
- Footage of the city in 1965, part 1: must watch!
Fun facts of PP
- Most of residents come from different areas to work. So, during long public holiday such as Cambodian New Year celebrations (Mid April:13-16th) or Pjum Ben festival (Mid or late September/beginning of October) the city has empty streets. Not a good time to visit, the majority of shops or restaurants are closed. People return to their homeland for the celebration.
- It is more crowded at tourist attractions at countryside or around Cambodia during public holiday.
- Tourist attractions in Phnom Penh seems to be closed during public holidays. Those people who work there also need to go to their hometown.
- The majority of Phnom Penh residents have parents or grandparents at other provinces, kids are born in Phnom Penh are teased for not having hometown to go.
Past articles related to Phnom Penh
| Phnom Penh and Surroundings |
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Above: Me, at the back of Silver Pagoda (in the Royal Palace compound)
Above: in front of the Royal Palace where the 3 rivers meet. This is where they celebrate boat racing every year
Above: Rose condo is located net to 5 star hotel" Sofitel Phnom Penh"
Above: Fishermen and their boats in the Mekong river in front of the Royal Palace ( I took the photo by phone in the evening by sunset river cruise - the quality is poor)
Above: national stadium: Olympic stadium
P.S. all of these photos were taken before Covid-19 time by low quality camera or phone so they are not very good. Many friends who are professional photographers took amazing landscape and nightscape and some from drone (ask permission) of the city with very good quality.
Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia, in a glimpse 
prior Covid and during Covid
Please enjoy my photo story as below!
Please tell me what you wish to know about Phnom Penh city? You will get your questions answered in the coming post about Phnom Penh!
Below: people go out for excising at the Olympic stadium (before Covid-19). There are three places people love to go out for exercise, riverside, Olympic stadium and Independent monument parks. Before covid-19, all of these places were packed but during Covid-19, people do not go out much anymore.
Below: People walk in the Independent Monument Park (during Covid)
Above: Fishermen in the four faces river in front of the Royal Palace. Life goes on, people would go out fishing as usual but the sunset river-cruise is no longer operated.
Below: I went on exercise with a friend at the river front before Covid-19. There were many people at that time - so busy, especially this riverside. Locals and young people love to go out and hanging here for fresh air.
Below: View at Aeon Mall I entrance during Covid (big super market in Phnom Penh). Usually, the supermarket is very busy but with covid-19 outbreak here first, it is so quiet and the businesses are slow - always on discount.
Below: night view from some sky tower of 40th floor into the city. Nightlife was vibrant and people go out late but with Covid-19, everything stops. No more hangout, no more party, no more meeting, gathering or drink at sky bars.
Below: Riverside at early stage of Covid-19. People still go out but keep social distance.
Below: Passengers boat crossing from Phnom Penh to Areiksat (way to silk island). These people still come to work in they city everyday despite the Covid-19 outbreak. They are residents at that side of the river.
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